Walking Through Onomichi: The Charm of a Warm, Coastal Town Where Hills and the Sea Come Together

Located in eastern Hiroshima Prefecture, Onomichi is a popular tourist destination known for its temples and shrines lining the slopes, its retro streetscape, and its role as the starting point of the Setouchi Shimanami Kaido.

While Onomichi is famous nationwide as a tourist destination, when you actually walk through the town, you realize that its charm cannot be fully conveyed through photos or guidebooks alone.

It has a certain nostalgic, warm atmosphere. Here, I’d like to share the charm I felt while walking through the streets of Onomichi.

The Retro Atmosphere of Onomichi’s Main Street

As you walk from Onomichi Station toward the city center, the first thing you’ll see is the Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street.

Stretching approximately 1.2 kilometers, this shopping street is lined with traditional shops and restaurants, creating a scene that evokes the atmosphere of the Showa era.

While simply strolling through the shopping street is enjoyable in itself, there are also numerous restaurants where you can savor Onomichi Ramen, the city’s signature local dish. Onomichi Ramen is famous nationwide for its soy sauce-based broth—made from a base of chicken bones and dashi stock drawn from small fish caught in the Seto Inland Sea—topped with a layer of pork back fat. As you walk through the city, you’ll see signs for it at many shops, giving you a real sense of Onomichi’s vibrant food culture.

Moreover, the charm of Hon-dori isn’t limited to the main street.

If you venture a little down the side streets, you’ll find quiet cafes and small gift shops dotted here and there.

I stopped by a cafe and had a crepe; enjoying this sweet treat in a relaxed atmosphere while gazing out at the Seto Inland Sea was truly special. Onomichi also has a deep-rooted retro coffee shop culture, and shops serving old-fashioned, firm-textured pudding are particularly popular.

When you visit, try wandering down the alleys without a specific destination in mind—you might just stumble upon an unexpected favorite spot.

A luxurious moment walking by the sea

Onomichi’s charm isn’t limited to its shopping streets.

Beyond the back alleys lies the tranquil Onomichi Channel. The calm waters, typical of the Seto Inland Sea, and the view of the islands on the opposite shore are so beautiful that you’ll find yourself stopping to take it all in.

While Onomichi is often strongly associated with its many slopes, its proximity to the sea is another major attraction. As you stroll leisurely along the seaside promenade, the sea breeze feels refreshing, and you get the sense that time itself has slowed down a little. Even without visiting any specific tourist spots, simply taking a walk by the sea allows you to experience the true essence of Onomichi.

A yellow train that stands out against the cityscape

As you walk through Onomichi, you’ll notice that trains run right alongside the city.

The sight of trains on the JR Sanyo Main Line passing just a stone’s throw from homes and shops is a scene unique to Onomichi. Because the tracks are so close to the city, the trains blend naturally into the everyday landscape.

The trains’ bright yellow bodies stand out beautifully against the retro streetscape, making them a popular photo subject that many people capture as a “scene unique to Onomichi.” There are even photo spots near the tracks where you can take pictures with the trains in the background, so be sure to stop by when you’re strolling through the city.

The spectacular view of Onomichi from the cable car

One experience you definitely shouldn’t miss when visiting Onomichi is the Senkoji Mountain Ropeway.

Although the ride is a short, roughly 3-minute aerial journey, the views are even more breathtaking than you could imagine.

What makes this ropeway unique is its route, which passes over shrines and temples—a rarity even on a national scale. Below, the streets of Onomichi stretch out before you, and beyond them lies the sparkling blue Seto Inland Sea. You’ll be amazed to see how the streets you were walking through just moments ago come together to create such a vast and beautiful landscape.

Near the summit, there is an observation deck offering a panoramic view of the Onomichi Channel, Mukaishima Island, and the islands of the Seto Inland Sea.

Also nearby is Senkoji Temple, one of Onomichi’s most iconic temples. The temple grounds, lined with charming ema votive tablets, have a warm and welcoming atmosphere, making it a favorite not only among tourists but also among locals.

Discovering the True Charm of Onomichi on the Way Home

Taking the cable car up is a great option, but I recommend walking back down.

As you make your way back down the hill toward the town, you’ll discover aspects of Onomichi’s charm that you might have missed from the cable car.

From cats lounging by the roadside to the “Literary Path” inscribed with quotes from literary works, and from temples standing quietly to old traditional houses, there are many sights you can only discover by walking at a leisurely pace.

Onomichi is also known as the “City of Cats,” and it’s not uncommon to encounter cats while strolling.

Rather than rushing to your destination, take your time and explore the town while making detours. I think this unique way of enjoying the city is what makes Onomichi so special.

Onomichi: A Mecca for Cyclists

In recent years, Onomichi has gained attention as a “holy ground for cyclists.”

The Setouchi Shimanami Kaido, which connects Onomichi with Imabari City in Ehime Prefecture, is a world-renowned cycling route. The route, which takes cyclists across bridges connecting the islands of the Seto Inland Sea, is a dream destination for many cyclists.

When you visit Onomichi, why not try cycling along the Shimanami Kaido in addition to exploring the town on foot?

Enjoy sightseeing in Hiroshima with Hotel Small World as your base

Onomichi is one of Hiroshima Prefecture’s most popular tourist destinations, but it is about an hour and a half by train from downtown Hiroshima. Therefore, if you’d like to combine sightseeing in Onomichi with visits to attractions in Hiroshima City—such as the Peace Memorial Park and the Atomic Bomb Dome—we recommend staying somewhere with convenient access.

Hotel Small World is a peace-themed hotel located in the heart of Hiroshima City. The hotel features an exhibition of books and materials related to war and peace, allowing guests to experience Hiroshima’s history and its commitment to peace in a way that sightseeing alone cannot fully convey.

Enjoy the serene scenery of the Seto Inland Sea in Onomichi, and connect with the spirit of peace in Hiroshima City. Hotel Small World is the perfect base for enjoying a trip that embodies the unique charm of Hiroshima.

Summary

Onomichi’s charm extends far beyond its beautiful scenery and famous tourist attractions.

From the scenery woven by the sea and winding slopes to traditional shopping streets and cafes tucked away in back alleys, the unique charm of Onomichi can be found all over the city. Every step brings a new discovery, and the ability to enjoy the city at your own leisurely pace is what makes Onomichi so special.

Unlike the polished beauty of big cities, Onomichi offers a warm, living streetscape where daily life and history come alive. I believe it is precisely this quality that continues to draw so many people to Onomichi.

When you visit Hiroshima, why not take a trip to Onomichi and experience its charm at your own pace?